The national Czech dish is roast pork, sauerkraut and dumplings. Another speciality is goulash, often served with dumplings. The main meal of the day is eaten around noon. It usually consists of meat and dumplings, potatoes or rice, and soup. In addition to a simple breakfast and evening meal, Czechs enjoy a snack (svacina) at about 10 am. Tea is the most common beverage.
However, Czech beer is famous worldwide. The best-known brands are Pilsner (Plzenske) and Budweiser (Budvar), but just as good are Radegast, Staropramen and Velkopopovicky Kozel. The favorite aperitif is Becherovka, a Czech-invented liqueur, potently herbal and touted as having medicinal qualities. Plum brandy (slivovice) is popular.

Because so many of the good restaurants are quite small, they tend to fill up quickly: We recommend that you reserve well ahead of time. There are usually no dress requirements (though your judgment might dictate more formal apparel for those that are very expensive). In less expensive places, it’s not considered rude for another party to join you at your table if seats are free.


CHOOSING A RESTAURANT OR CAFÉ
Dining in Prague is relatively inexpensive by west European standards. The average price listed below includes an appetizer and a main meal with accompanying side dish, but not a dessert or drinks. The average price doesn't necessarily relate to atmosphere or the quality of food.

Restauratns
Fast food
Cafes
Cafebars
Internet Cafes

Restaurants

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Felicita
Ricni 5 , Prague1
phone: Tel. 257312565
prices: 80–400 Kc
Continental / International Pizzas, pastas, grilled meats and specialties.

Alcron
Stepanska 40, Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 222 820 038.
prices: 1,100–1,250 Kc.
Continental / International The address for fresh seafood: perfectly prepared dishes presented in an intimate, sophisticated atmosphere. Executive chef Jiri Stift is one of the city's rising culinary stars. Recommended: smoked eel with truffled scrambled eggs, monkfish with foie gras, John Dory filet with olives. Reservations are essential. (at the Radisson SAS Alcron). Open Mon.–Sat. 5:30–10:30 p.m. AmEx, Diners Club, Euro/MC, Visa.

Bakeshop Diner
Lazenska 19, Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone: Tel. 257 534 244.
prices: 200–400 Kc.
Continental / International Mala Strana denizens have one less reason to cross Charles Bridge following the opening of this polished bakery and diner. Recommended: hamburgers; cheesetoast; garden salad with grilled veggies; cheesecake; oatmeal cookies; walnut bread. Open daily 7 a.m.–10 p.m. Euro/MC, Visa.

Barock Bar & Cafe
Parizska 24, Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 222 329 221.
prices: 1,300–1,600 Kc.
Asian / Fusion International. Not quite the starlet it once was, this local originator of international fine dining still offers above-average service and intriguing cuisine in a chic, fashion-cafe atmosphere. Recommended: Barock sushi set, appetizer samplers, baked ostrich, butterfish with shiitake mushrooms. Impress your friends. Open Mon.–Wed. 8:30 a.m.–1 a.m., Thurs.–Fri. 8:30 a.m.–2 a.m., Sat.–Sun. 10 a.m.–2 a.m. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa.

Bohemia Bagel
Ujezd 16, Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone: Tel. 257 310 694.
prices: 60–150 Kc.
Continental / International Fresh bagels of many varieties, sandwiches and homemade soups. Bottomless cups of coffee. Recommended: muffins, brownies and cheesecakes. Open daily, 7 a.m.–2 a.m. No credit cards.

Bohemia Bagel II
Masna 2, Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 224 812 560
prices: 60–150 Kc.
Continental / International The Old Town location of the local bagel emporium offers the same high-quality sandwiches and soups for which bagel-starved expats are eternally grateful. Thanks a lox! Open Mon.–Fri. 7 a.m.–midnight. Sat.–Sun. 8 a.m.–midnight. No credit cards.

Brasiliero
U Radnice 8, Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 224 234 474.
prices: 650–800 Kc .
Mexican / Southwestern / Latin Brazilian. A madcap, cavalcade buffet of grilled meats, boldly served forth by a small army of cooks wielding carving knives, massive platters and lengthy skewers. From the Ambiente group. Highly recommended. Open daily 11 a.m.–midnight. Euro/MC, Visa.

Brasserie Praha
V Celnici 8, Prague 1–Old Town
phone: Tel. 222 881 212.
prices: 700–1,000 Kc.
Continental / International International. Quality menus and excellent service make this an excellent choice for lunch, drinks or dinner. Recommended: seasonal specials, grilled swordfish. (Inside the Prague Marriott hotel). Open daily 6:30 a.m.–11:30 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Break Cafe
Stepanska 32, Prague 1–New Town.
phone: Tel. 222 231 065.
prices: 200–300 Kc.
Continental / International A smart cafe with good service. Light breakfasts served daily. Recommended: salad Napoleon, farmer salad, steak sandwich, salmon quiche, daily pastas and seasonal specials. Open Mon.–Fri. 8 a.m.–10 p.m., Sat. 9:30 a.m.–7 p.m. No credit cards.

Byblos
Rybna 14, Prague 1–Old Town
phone: Tel. 221 842 121.
prices: 450–950 Kc.
Middle Eastern International. Lebanese dishes are the raison d'etre of this slightly overlooked modern eatery, although pizzas, pasta and salads are also available. Recommended: Byblos mezze menu for two, baba ghanouj, tabbouleh and hummus, batinjan makdus, Lebanese sausages, grilled meats. Very, very good. (inside Burzovni palac). Open Mon.–Fri. 8 a.m.–midnight, Sat.–Sun. 11 a.m.–midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

C'est la Vie
Ricni 1, Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone: Tel. 257 321 511.
prices: 1,000–1,600 Kc.
Continental / International Continental. This hot-spot for foodies is back at it, offering excellent, French-inspired cooking and above-average service. Semi-casual feel, much like a yacht club. Recommended: tuna tartare with black truffles, mesclun salad with blue cheese, veal entrecote with risotto, grilled chicken in tamarind sauce. Open daily 11:30 a.m.–midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Cafe Lamborghini
Vodickova 8, Prague 1–New Town.
phone: Tel. 222 231 869.
prices: 150–500 Kc.
Italian / Pizza Italian. High-octane espresso, good panini, salads and spaghetti. Take-away Italian delicacies are also available. The plaque on the wall says that the name has been approved by the celebrated maker of the Diablo. Vroom! Open Mon.–Sat. 8 a.m.–10 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Euro/MC, Visa.

Casa Mia
Vodickova 17, Prague 1–New Town.
phone: Tel. 296 238 202.
prices: 300–600 Kc.
Continental / International An opulent setting for seafood, although service is occasionally less than top shelf. The al fresco dining area in front is highly recommended for open-air eats in the center, however. Affordable pizzas, too. Open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Euro/MC, Visa.

Cerny kun
Vodickova 36, Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 224 212 659.
prices: 350–625 Kc.
Czech / Slovak (The Black Horse) Czech/Slovak. Highly recommendable halusky, excellent lamb chops and a fabulous south Bohemian kolac are but three of the excellent dishes in this airy, modern cellar. (inside Palac Lucerna). Open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, DC, Visa.

Chilli's
Vladislavova 18 , Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 224 949 305.
prices: 130–320 Kc.
Mexican / Southwestern / Latin Mexican. Some of the best dips, chips and tacos in town, without a doubt. Prices have gone up slightly, but 120 Kc or less for main courses is still mighty affordable. Recommended: chips and salsa, nachos grande, house taco plate, the outstanding chicken quesadillas. Excellente! Muchas gracias! (behind Tesco). Open Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–10 p.m. No credit cards.

Circle Line Brasserie
Malostranske nam. 12, Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone: Tel. 257 530 021.
prices: 1,100–1,700 Kc.
Continental / International Continental. Good service in a formal atmosphere bordering on the Baroque. The menu features a delicious assortment of starters, main courses and desserts. Open Mon.–Fri. noon–11 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 11 a.m.–11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Clementinum
Platnerska 9, Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 224 813 892.
prices: 350–600 Kc
Continental / International Blending the boundaries, this reopened classic is both informal and stylish, dreamy and down-to-earth. Recommended: mushroom millefeuille with cream, baked goat cheese with raspberry sauce, tarragon chicken leg with vegetable couscous, rabbit with Dijon mustard sauce. Open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Credo
Petrska 11, Prague 1–New Town.
phone: Tel. 222 324 634.
prices: 350–550 Kc.
Continental / International International. This stylish new spot clearly has ambitions, but this is merely good cooking and not necessarily refined cooking. Numerous sweet-and-sour fruit sauces appear throughout the menu. Recommended: crepes stuffed with duck meat, steak in plum sauce, chicken and beef tenderloin medallions with orange glaze, superior domestic wines from Dobra vinice. Open Mon.–Sat. 9 a.m.–midnight. No credit cards.

Dunia
U Milosrdnych 4, Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 224 813 706.
prices: 350–550 Kc.
Middle Eastern This souk-styled salle presents a heady melange of quality north African, Lebanese and Indian cooking, all at affordable prices. Recommended: tandoori chicken appetizer; lamb moricha; chicken tagine. Open Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.–11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa

Dynamo
Pstrossova 29, Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 224 932 020.
prices: 350–500 Kc.
Continental / International A hip, modernist diner great for people-watching. Recommended: liver and onions, marinated tongue in black sauce, single-malt scotches. (behind the National Theater). Open Mon.–Fri. 10:30 a.m.–midnight. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa. Stravenky.

Flambee
Husova 5, Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 224 248 512.
prices: 1,300–2,400 Kc.
Continental / International Continental. Worth it just to watch the precise movements of the white-gloved servers. This stylish cellar's cooking, service, atmosphere and presentation are all nearly flawless; reader e-mails rate this restaurant among Prague's very best. Recommended: bluefin tuna tartare, lamb shoulder in crumb coat, cherry sorbet. Open daily 11:30 a.m.–1 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Gitanes
Trziste 7, Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone: Tel. 257 530 163.
prices: 700–800 Kc.
Continental / International Combines Latin, Slavic and Romany influences to lead diners on a pan-Mediterranean caravan inside a colorful, funky Mala Strana chamber. Recommended: sweet corn bread, stewed pork with vegetables. Open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Euro/MC, Visa.

Hacienda Mexicana
Klimentska 46, Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 221 851 095.
prices: 350–550 Kc.
Mexican / Southwestern / Latin An entirely enjoyable Mexican-style eatery with a decent, hacienda-inspired atmosphere. Recommended: spinach salad, chili beans, burritos, Margaritas. (inside Praha City Center). Open daily noon–midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Hergetova Cihelna
Cihelna 2b, Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone: Tel. 257 535 534.
prices: 300–500 Kc.
Continental / International International. The youngest sibling in the Kampa Park family is part lounge, part intimate eatery, and all at modest prices. The excellent wood-fired pizzas are perhaps the best in town. Recommended: apple and endive salad, spinach and arugula salad, basil and pine nut pizza, chicken wok, BBQ burger, Belgian ales. Open daily 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Hungarian Grotto
Tomasska 12, Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone: Tel. 257 532 344.
prices: 500–800 Kc
Continental / International Paprika and more: hearty, meat-and-potatoes cooking direct from Budapest. Recommended: stuffed mushrooms, chicken paprikash, sirloin strips with leco, Egri bikaver red wine. Open daily 9 a.m.–9 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Hybernia
Hybernska 7, Prague 1–New Town.
phone: Tel. 224 226 004.
prices: 250–400 Kc.
Continental / International International. Clearly on to something, Hybernia has hatched a plan to deliver large portions of hearty food at modest prices, earning a solid lunchtime following in the process. Heads of government and their bodyguards occasionally drop in for a quick bite. Recommended dishes include bouillabaisse, turkey breast steak, ginger-marinated duck breast and gnocchi with Parma ham and Parmesan. Open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Kampa Park
Na Kampe 8b, Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone: Tel. 257 532 685.
prices: 1,500–1,800 Kc.
Continental / International After two renovations in just 14 months, Prague's favorite celebrity hotspot is back in style. Outstanding riverfront dining with a stellar menu by chef Marek Raditsch. Recommended: seared Pacific pompano with truffle beurre blanc, grilled sea bass with herbed ravioli and tomato-vodka puree, desserts. Open daily 11:30 a.m.–1 a.m. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa.

La Veranda
Elisky Krasnohorske 2, Prague 1–Josefov.
phone: Tel. 224 814 733.
prices: 700–1,200 Kc.
Asian / Fusion A fusion of East and West, performed by 2002 chef of the year Radek David. Creative presentation, stylish interiors, good service and unusual culinary combinations make this a favored new spot for memorable meals. Recommended: lamb tenderloin with tamarind and port, tuna tartare with shiitake mushrooms, Sv. Jakub scallops with orange-cardamom glace, new style salad with Japanese noodles and tataki tuna. Impressive yet informal. Open daily 11 a.m.–10 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Lary Fary
Dlouha 30, Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 222 320 154.
prices: 500–800 Kc.
Continental / International Postmodern Czech. A relatively successful approximation of dinner-as-theater, mixing Moroccan and Polynesian design elements with a touch of the supernatural. The kebabs are particularly surprising. Fair warning to ranch hands: The kitchen tends to undercook the steaks, even by European standards. Recommended: nettle soup, steak with shrimp, duck kebab. Open daily 11 a.m.–midnight. Euro/MC, Visa.

Les Moules
Parizska 19, Prague 1–Old Town
phone: Tel. 222 315 022.
prices: 550–850 Kc.
Continental / International International. The mussels from Brussels — fresh Belgian moules in both traditional and heterodox recipes. Largish selection of Belgian beers, both bottled and on draft, including Leffe, Belle-Vue kriek and the heavenly Duvel. Recommended: mussels with coconut milk, moules marinieres, endive soup, goose liver parfait. (near the InterContinental hotel). Open daily 11 a.m.–midnight. Euro/MC, Visa.

Magicka zahrada II
Narodni 6, Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 224 931 358.
prices: 300–600 Kc.
Mexican / Southwestern / Latin International. A series of strange meteorological events and Jungian coincidences preceded the arrival of this Scandinavian-style Mexican cantina just across the courtyard from the National Theater. Very cool, but somewhat spooky. Recommended: verdura en parrilla, nachos, red-bean tostada, beef fajitas, chicken enchiladas. The X-Files progenitor Charles Fort would probably really like it here. (next to the National Theater). Open Mon.–Fri. 8 a.m.–midnight, Sat.–Sun. 10 a.m.–midnight. DC, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa.

Maly Buddha
Uvoz 46, Prague 1–Hradcany
phone: Tel. 220 513 894.
prices: 200–300 Kc.
Asian / Fusion (Little Buddha) An approximation of Vietnamese temple food. Fine assortment of teas and light dishes. No smoking. Extremely popular. Recommended: vegetarian spring rolls, Chinese chicken. Open Tues.–Sun. 1 p.m.–10:30 p.m. No credit cards.

Miyabi
Navratilova 10, Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 296 233 102.
prices: 350–500 Kc.
Asian / Fusion Japanese. Intriguing setting, but weak on the sushi. A small selection of Japanese teas. Recommended: tempura and teriyaki dishes. (near Vodickova). Open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Euro/MC, Visa.

N11
Narodni 11, Prague 1
phone: Tel. 222 075 705.
prices: 300–600 Kc.
Continental / International A cavernous urban club and eatery awarded extra credit for extremely late hours. Excellent international wines, including 40 wines available by the glass. Recommended: marinated eggplant, steaks. (across from the National Theater). Open daily 4 p.m.–6 a.m. AmEx, Diners Club, Euro/MC, Visa.

Orange Moon
Ramova 5, Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 222 325 119.
prices: 200–400 Kc.
Asian / Fusion Rejoice! Prague's favorite spot for the spicy flavors of traditional Thai and Burmese cooking has expanded, with more seating and a larger menu. Recommended: yam kai, tom yum kai soup, phad kra pao, phad thai kai, chicken with fresh ginger and bamboo shoots. Open daily 11:30 a.m.–11:30 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Palffy palac
Valdstejnska 14, Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone: Tel. 257 530 522.
prices: 800–1,000 Kc.
Continental / International Continental. One of Prague's best-kept secrets, this elegant and eccentric eatery offers sophisticated service, excellent continental cuisine and a decadent, faded Old World charm. Don't miss Sunday brunch or one of the many excellent weekday lunch specials. Truly palatial. Recommended: quail breast with sun-dried plums and apricot sauce, lamb cutlet with mint aspic. Open daily 11 a.m.–midnight (kitchen closes at 11 p.m.). AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. Stravenky.

Peklo
Strahovske nadvori 1/132, Prague 1–Mala Strana
phone: Tel. 220 516 652.
prices: 800–1,500 Kc.
Continental / International (Hell) Continental. Relax, sinners! In this sophisticated cellar, only the Muzak is hellish. Recommended: stuffed devil's hoof, paella. (below the gardens of Strahov Monastery). Open Mon. 6 p.m.–midnight, Tues.–Sun. noon–midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Picante
Revolucni 4, Prague 1–Old Town
phone: Tel. 222 322 022.
prices: 100–200 Kc.
Mexican / Southwestern / Latin Inexpensive Mexican-inspired eats are served up fresh at this clean, friendly taco counter. Recommended: taco salads, soft tacos, pork burritos, chicken burritos, quesadillas. (at namesti Republiky). Open daily 10 a.m.–midnight No credit cards.

Pizza Coloseum
Ovocny trh 8, Prague 1–Old Town
phone: Tel. 224 238 355.
prices: 100–300 Kc.
Italian / Pizza Pizza and pasta. Decent Italian food in sizeable portions occasionally lacking subtlety. Very busy at peak hours. Recommended: chicken marsala, gnocchi, tiramisu. Open Mon.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–11:30 p.m., Sun. noon–11:30 p.m. AmEx, Visa.

Pizzeria Kmotra
V Jircharich 12, Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 224 915 809.
prices: 135–250 Kc.
Italian / Pizza (Godmother) Pizza. Good thin-crust pies and decent service in a crowded, cellar locale. A perennial favorite. (near Spalena). Open daily 11 a.m.–midnight. No credit cards. Stravenky.

Platyz
Narodni 37, Prague 1–Old Town
phone: Tel. 224 211 161.
prices: 200–300 Kc.
Continental / International International. Strike a pose: This relaxed cafe is perfect for layabouts. Decent cheap eats — sandwiches, baguettes and the like — are available the whole darn day. Recommended: turkey sandwich, salmon baguette, tomato salad, authentic milkshakes. (near Tesco). Mon.–Fri. 10 a.m.–11 p.m., Sat.–Sat. 11 a.m.–11 p.m. DC, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa.

Pricny rez
Pricna 3, Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 222 233 283.
prices: 150–225 Kc.
Continental / International (Cross-Cut) International. The hospoda of the future has landed — modest prices and very good service make this an extremely popular destination: Reservations are highly advised for diners. Recommended: duck with tarragon and lime, chicken breast with niva cheese and cranberry sauce, duck with apples, pork cutlet with blue cheese and walnuts. The newly added brunch menu, served Sat.–Sun. 11:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m., adds omelettes, French toast, bacon, sausages and seasonal specials to the mix. (at Reznicka). Open daily 10:30 a.m.–11 p.m. No credit cards.

Red Fish
Betlemska 9, Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 222 220 716.
prices: 400–600 Kc.
Asian / Fusion Sushi. Quite a catch: very good sushi and other Japanese items at moderate prices. Smallish selection, large portions. Recommended: inside-out California roll, tuna temaki, salmon nigiri, yakitori, monkfish with coconut and banana, soba noodles. Open daily 11:30 a.m.–midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Resto Cafe Patio
Hastalska 18, Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 224 819 767.
prices: 400–800 Kc.
Continental / International International. Well-endowed stylewise, yet comfortably informal. Nice steaks and other grilled meats at modest prices with a powerful value-for-Kc factor. Good wines by the glass. Recommended: Caesar salad, ribeye steak, la plancha menus. Open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Safir Grill
Havelska 12, Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 602 358 256.
prices: 100–200 Kc.
Middle Eastern This modest falafel and kebab joint serves up highly affordable hummus, tabbouleh and light salads of spicy chicken and cucumber with yogurt. Highly recommended within the categorical limitations of a fast-food lunch counter. Open Mon.–Sat. 10 a.m.–8 p.m. No credit cards.

Sate
Pohorelec 3, Prague 1–Hradcany
phone: Tel. 220 514 552.
prices: 200–300 Kc.
Asian / Fusion Excellent Indonesian specialties just a stone's throw from Prague Castle. Informal, cornerstore decor. Among the ma Square
Malostranske nam. 5, , Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone: Tel. 257 532 109.
prices: 650–1,200 Kc.
Continental / International International. The old Malostranska kavarna lives on in a stylish new incarnation offering top-quality tapas, creative presentations, well-crafted main courses and a variety of wines by the glass. Not for the overly nostalgic or impecunious. Recommended: gaspacho shot, fried quail eggs with parsley, sweet pepper caponata, pata negra ham, flamed baby chicken. Lunch specials offer very good meals at reduced prices. Open Sun.–Wed. 9 a.m.–1 a.m., Thurs.–Sat. 9 a.m.–3 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Tulip Cafe
Opatovicka 3, , Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 224 930 019.
prices: 300–500 Kc
Continental / International Like the swingin' pad of your favorite bachelor uncle, this New Town fave features open space, intentionally fake woodgrain trim and minimalistic light fixtures. Very good food at extremely modest prices. Recommended: stuffed eggplant, shaved fennel salad, chicken breast with lemon-pepper sauce. Much appreciated. Open Mon.–Thurs. 11 a.m.–midnight, Fri.–Sat. 11 a.m.–2 a.m., Sun. 11 a.m.–11 p.m. No credit cards.

U Modre kachnicky
Michalska 16, , Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 224 213 418.
prices: 700–900 Kc.
Continental / International (At the Blue Duckling) Game. Intimate and esteemed. Recommended: duck roasted with pears, boar steak with forest mushrooms. Open daily 11:30 a.m.–11:30 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

U Pinkasu
Jungmannovo nam. 16, , Prague 1–New Town.
phone: Tel. 221 111 151.
prices: 300–500 Kc
Czech / Slovak Czech. Excellent beer and decent Czech meals are available in the first Prague pub to serve Pilsner Urquell, the first Pilsner beer, on draft here since 1843. Atmosphere to spare. Recommended: leg of hare with spinach, roast duck, homemade pate, chicken with forest mushrooms and homemade noodles. Restaurant open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m.; cellar pub open daily 4 p.m.–4 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

U Suteru
Palackeho 4, , Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 224 947 120.
prices: Under 200 Kc.
Czech / Slovak An authentic Czech pub, though not nearly the legend of yore. Nonetheless, some of the dishes may make it worth your while. Very busy at peak hours. Service can be surly if not downright rude, making it just that much more authentic. The roast duck is recommended. (off Vodickova). Open daily, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. No credit cards.

U Zlate studne
U Zlate studne 4, , Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone: Tel. 257 533 322.
prices: 700–1,000 Kc.
Continental / International (At the Golden Well) Stunning views and an elegant setting for a superior Continental dining experience. Recommended: baked monkfish with saffron risotto and red butter sauce, roast duck breast in coriander sauce. Open daily 7 a.m.–11 a.m., noon–4 p.m., 6 p.m.–11 p.m. Euro/MC, Visa.

Universal
V Jircharich 6, , Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 224 918 182 or 224 921 187.
prices: 200–300 Kc.
Continental / International A casual, French-influenced eatery of good value. Excellent steaks and a variety of fresh, meal-sized salads. Recommended: oriental and goat-cheese salads. If the lemon pie is on the list of available specials, take it. (behind the National Theater). Open daily 11:30 a.m.–midnight. No credit cards.

Vas-y Vas-y
Pstrossova 8, , Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 224 930 156.
prices: 200–450 Kc.
Continental / International French. The reports of this bistro's demise were greatly exaggerated. Often overlooked. Intimate, casual dining and excellent house wines. Affordable lunch specials. Recommended: cod with walnuts and blue cheese, rabbit with plums. (behind the National Theater). Open Mon.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m. (bar open until 1 a.m.). No credit cards.

Vinarna V Zatisi
Liliova 1, , Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 222 221 155.
prices: 1,200–1,700 Kc.
Continental / International This one-time darling of the local fine dining scene offers excellent cooking in only above-average surroundings. Pricey. Recommended: fresh green asparagus with tokay wine dressing, roast quail with spinach, free-range chicken with sun-dried-tomato sauce. Open daily noon–3 p.m., 5:30–11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Yalla
Dlouha 33, , Prague 1–Old Town.
phone: Tel. 224 827 375.
prices: 100–300 Kc.
Middle Eastern Like a quick holiday in the Near East, this unpretentious couscous counter's flavorful meals provide a cure for culinary wanderlust. Recommended: Kairouan couscous, merguez sausages, sweet peppers stuffed with cheese, harissa cake. Open daily 10 a.m.–8 p.m. No credit cards.

Zahrada v opere
Legerova 75, , Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 224 239 685.
prices: 300–600 Kc.
Continental / International (Garden at the Opera) Excellent. Fine dining before, during and after State Opera performances in a light, fairy-tale modern decor. A favorite. Recommended: mussel soup with pastis, rabbit ragout, seasonal specials. (behind Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty). Open daily 11:30 a.m.–1 a.m. (kitchen closes at midnight). AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Zvonice
Jindrisska at Senovazne namesti, , Prague 1–New Town
phone: Tel. 224 220 009.
prices: 1,200–1,600 Kc.
Continental / International (the Belfry) Priced to match the rarefied locale, this above-average eatery offers good cooking atop a renovated stone tower. A unique setting with an only-in-Prague vibe. Recommended: house-made liver spread, beef steak with rosemary and cognac glaze, lamb roll with oranges and capers. (inside Jindrisska vez). Open daily noon–midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Fast food

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Adonis Jungmannova 21, New Town
Tel.: +420 268 908
No credit cards. Central, fast and cheap. The menu is geared toward Middle Eastern tastes and offers several vegetarian options.

Country Life Jungmannova 1, New Town
Tel.: +420 2454 4419
No credit cards. A buffet restaurant offering quick and inexpensive lunches that are completely vegetarian. The other branch is in Melantrichova 15, Old Town.

U Bakalare Celetna 13, Old Town
Tel.: +420 2481 1870
No credit cards. One of the est spots in the centre for a quick, inexpensive, light lunch for those who favour crepes to hotdogs. Also salads and soups are offered.

Cornocupia Jungmannova 12, New Town
Tel.: +420 2455 ....
Good sandwitches, Sunday's brunnches

Bona Vita Dlouha 4, Old Town
Tel.: +420 231 1376
No credit cards. A buffet restaurant just off the Old Town Square, featuring Indian and Chinese-style soya dishes, as well as some genuine carnage. The portions are a bit small.

Cafes

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Cafe de Paris
Obecniho domu 1, , Prague 1–Old Town
phone, desc: Tel. 224 222 151. The ritzy downtown cafe address with occasional jazz combos, highballs and a colorful history, thanks to Bohumil Hrabal's I Served the King of England. (inside the Hotel Pariz). Open daily 10 a.m.–midnight.

Cafe Louvre
Narodni 20, , Prague 1–New Town
phone, desc: Tel. 224 930 949. A spacious, cheerful cafe where Franz Kafka, Max Brod and their circle used to talk philosophy. Complete menu. Nonsmoking room available. (near Tesco). Open daily 8 a.m.–11 p.m.

Cafe Montmartre
Retezova 7, , Prague 1–Old Town.
phone, desc: Tel. 222 221 244. A legend from the First Republic returns. Once a watering hole for legendary Prague figures, Montik is a jewel of cafes. Open daily 8 a.m.–11 p.m.

Cafe Screen
Na Porici 15, , Prague 1–New Town.
phone, desc: Tel. 224 816 607. This MTV-styled lounge shows a steady stream of music videos on a massive projection screen. Decent salads and pizzas. Open daily 9 a.m.–midnight.

Cafeterapie
Podskalska 3, , Prague 2–Nove Mesto
phone, desc: Tel. 224 916 098. An excellent source for Mediterranean-inspired meals, most of which are vegetarian. Highly flavorful salads, tempeh and tofu variations, with rotating specials highlighting seasonal ingredients. Located just off the Vltava, Cafeterapie makes an excellent stop after riverside strolls or as a starting point for a walk to nearby Vysehrad. (tram 7, 16, 17 or 21 to Vyton; enter on Na hrobci). Open Sun.–Fri. 10 a.m.–10 p.m. No credit cards.

Dahab
Dlouha 33, , Prague 1–Old Town
phone, desc: Tel. 224 827 375. Hookahs, exotic teas, divans and Middle Eastern meals, all combined with occasional belly dancing and a truly rarefied atmosphere. (enter on Rybna). Open daily noon–midnight. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa.

Dobra Trafika
Korunni 42, , Prague 2–Vinohrady.
phone, desc: Tel. 222 510 261. A cafe, vinotheque and tobacconist's all in one. Cigars, international newspapers, teas, notebooks and a good selection of wines. Small snacks. Open Mon.–Fri. 7:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 9 a.m.–11 p.m.

Dobra Trafika II
Ujezd 37, , Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone, desc: No telephone. The Mala Strana branch of the favorite cafe-tabak offers teas, coffees and newspapers near the entrance to the Petrin funicular. Open Mon.–Fri. 7:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 9 a.m.–11 p.m.

Ebel Coffee House
Tyn 2, , Prague 1–Old Town.
phone, desc: Tel. 224 895 788. A miracle: coffee of the highest quality in the heart of Old Town. Pure arabicas and custom coffee blends created just for Praguers. Open daily 9 a.m.–10 p.m. DC, Euro/MC, Visa.

Grand Hotel Evropa
Vaclavske nam. 25, , Prague 1–New Town.
phone, desc: Tel. 224 228 117. Faded glory, to be sure, but still crammed to the balcony rails with turn-of-the-century Art Nouveau excesses. The most stylish old nook on Wenceslas Square. Cover may be charged for live music. Open daily 9:30 a.m.–11 p.m.

Grazie Trattoria
Hastalska 15, , Prague 1–Old Town.
phone, desc: Tel. 736 164 524. A charming little neighborhood joint with just enough room for you and your 12 closest friends. Decent light meals and snacks, perfect for lunch. The house specialty is high-grade raki, a distilled liquor imported from Montenegro, presumably under cover of darkness. Bye-bye. Open daily 10 a.m.–11 p.m.

James Bond Cafe
Polska 7 , Prague 2–Vinohrady
phone, desc: Tel. 721 449 732. This 007-inspired cafe and bar offers cocktails, draft beer and light meals. Stylish and popular. (near metro Jiriho z Podebrad). Open Mon.–Sat. 4 p.m.–1 a.m., Sun. 4 p.m.–11 p.m.

Java Kava
Spalena 41, , Prague 1–New Town
phone, desc: Tel. 222 310 248. The real deal — fresh coffee and affordable, well-made sandwiches perfect for a take-away lunch or sit-down dining. Praises be! (near metro Narodni trida) Open Mon.–Fri. 8 a.m.–8 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 11 a.m.–5 p.m. No credit cards.

Jazz Cafe c. 14
Opatovicka 14, , Prague 1
phone, desc: Tel. 224 920 039. An Old-World-meets-New-School hangout where students, musicians and other arty types drink and chat in hip, comfortable environs. Excellent for intimate meetings, and overall, excellent. (behind the National Theater). Open Mon.–Fri. 10 a.m.–11 p.m., Sat.–Sun. noon–11 p.m.

Kaaba
Manesova 20, , Prague 2–Vinohrady
phone, desc: Tel. 222 254 021. Catch a buzz: celebrated coffees from around the globe, cult wines from well-known domestic producers and a cool International Modern decor. Excellent for extremely lazy mornings. (tram 11 to Italska). Open Mon.–Sat. 8 a.m.–midnight. No credit cards.

Kava Kava Kava
Narodni 37 , Prague 1–Old Town
phone, desc: Tel. 224 228 862. Three-time winner of Best Coffee in Prague. Quiet courtyard cafe, specialty coffee shop and Internet cafe also has coffee to go and freshly roasted whole-bean coffee. Yummy baked goods, too. (in the Platyz courtyard, opposite Tesco). Open Mon.–Fri. 7 a.m.–9 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 9 a.m.–9 p.m.

Kavarna Divadla Komedie
Jungmannova 1, , Prague 1–New Town.
phone, desc: No telephone. This renewed theater cafe is a tribute to Functionalism and all that is modern, circa 1928. Originally the headquarters of the Mining and Metallurgical company, the kavarna at the base of architect Josef Karel Riha's stylish building features free-flowing space, high ceilings, marble walls and unique light fixtures. Open Mon.–Sat. 8:30 a.m.–midnight, Sun. noon–midnight.

Kavarna Obecni dum
Nam. Republiky 5, , Prague 1–Old Town
phone, desc: Tel. 222 002 763. Stop by for a coffee when you're out sightseeing with the 'rents: This venerable Art Nouveau wedding cake of a building houses a pricey but elegant cafe. Stunning. Open daily 7:30 a.m.–11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Kavarna Slavia
Narodni at Smetanovo nabrezi, , Prague 1–Old Town
phone, desc: Tel. 224 220 957. Legendary. The views across the river are unbeatable at Prague's most celebrated literary and theatrical cafe. (opposite the National Theater). Open Mon.–Fri. 8 a.m.–midnight, Sat.–Sun. 9 a.m.–midnight.

Kenvelo Cafe
Vaclavske nam. 1, , Prague 1–New Town
phone, desc: Tel. 224 473 065. A sleek and urbane espresso bar from the masterminds at Kenvelo HQ. Dude, you know you're cool. (inside the Koruna Palace arcade). Open daily 8 a.m.–11 p.m.

Meduza
Belgicka 17, , Prague 2–Vinohrady.
phone, desc: Tel. 222 515 107. An original and one of the best, Meduza offers refreshing warmth in a decadent, stylish atmosphere. Deep-cushion armchairs, antique prints and a full range of coffees and teas, light meals and snacks attract a trendy clientele. Velvet on tap, Pilsner Urquell in bottles. For groups, reservations are recommended. Open Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–1 a.m., Sat.–Sun. noon–1 a.m.

Nostress
Dusni 10, , Prague 1–Old Town
phone, desc: Tel. 222 317 004. Fashions may come and go, but the selling of style is going to be around for a while. Shop for couches, tables and a number of unique home-decorating elements after lunch and an espresso at this elegant design emporium. Our favorite? The green, spikey balls made out of artificial grass. Sweet. (enter on V Kolkovne).

Paneria
Nekazanka 19, , Prague 1–New Town
phone, desc: Tel. 222 243 207. The flagship has landed — the main location of the Paneria sandwich chain and bakery offers good panini, fresh pastas, croissants, loaves, buns and tarts. Lounging space available upstairs. (near the main post office). Open daily 7 a.m.–10 p.m. No credit cards.

Shakespeare and Sons
Krymska 12, , Prague 10–Vrsovice
phone, desc: Tel. 271 740 839. This elegant bookstore and cafe a mere stone's throw from the Vrsovice-Vinohrady border offers a wide selection of excellent mind fodder, as well as Bernard beer and good coffee. Cool. (tram 4, 22 or 23 to Krymska). Open daily 10–midnight.

The Globe Bookstore and Coffeehouse
Pstrossova 6, , Prague 1–New Town
phone, desc: Tel. 224 934 203. An expat institution. Coffee and conversation, booze and books. Full menu, with weekend brunch. (behind the National Theater). Open daily 10 a.m.–midnight.

U modreho psa leziciho naznak
Pstrossova 23, , Prague 1–New Town
phone, desc: No telephone. That's something akin to At the blue dog lying upside down for you and me. Coffee and fresh pastries. (behind the National Theater). Open daily 10 a.m.–10. p.m.

U sv. Vojtecha
Vojtesska 14, , Prague 1–New Town
phone, desc: Tel. 224 910 594. (At St. Adalbert's) Neighborhood gathering place, light, airy and comfortable, with newspapers-on-a-stick and good coffee. (behind the National Theater). Open Mon.–Fri. 8 a.m.–10 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.–10 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.–8 p.m.

U Zeleneho caje
Nerudova 19, , Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone, desc: Tel. 257 530 027. The Green Tea proffers teas and light meals on busy Nerudova street just below the castle. Open daily 11 a.m.–10 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Vesmirna
Ve Smeckach 5, , Prague 1–New Town.
phone, desc: Tel. 222 212 363. An earthy, warm coffeehouse with fresh-squeezed juices and satisfying light meals, many of which are organic. Set up for the integration of people with special needs. Excellent service, fluent in many languages. Recommended: fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice with echinacea, organic couscous with cheese and veggies, hot apple pie with ice cream. Open Mon.–Fri. 8:20 a.m.–10 p.m., Sat. 2 p.m.–10 p.m. No credit cards.

Vzpominky na Afriku
Corner of Rybna and Jakubska, , Prague 1–Old Town
phone, desc: Tel. 603 441 434. Memories of Africa offers the town's widest selection of coffees: more than 30 freshly roasted single-bean varieties, plus flavored and blended coffees. If you'd like to roast your own, green coffee beans are also available. A lifesaver. (behind Kotva department store). Open Mon.–Fri. 10 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.

Cafe Bars

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I Alcohol Bar
Dusni 6, , Prague 1–Old Town.
phone, desc: Tel. 224 811 744. Great music, Cuban cigars and the largest collection of scotch in the city. An unparalleled assortment of alcoholic beverages, including obscure gins, unknown tequilas and rare bottles of rum, perfectly presented in a modern, urbane cellar. Recommended: single-malt scotch, rum with ginger, cachaca. Fun. Open daily 7 p.m.–2 a.m.

Baracnicka rychta
Trziste 23, , Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone, desc: No telephone. (Small Homeowners Association) Old-fashioned good times. Good, cheap Svijany beer and solid pub fare in the heart of Mala Strana. Occasional music concerts. Open daily noon–midnight.

Bebop Bar
Stepanska 40, , Prague 1–New Town
phone, desc: Tel. 222 820 000. Dive in for drinks before dinner at the Alcron or La Rotonde, or hang out late for live music. Perfect martinis. (at the Radisson SAS Alcron). Open daily 10 a.m.–1 a.m.

Cafe Shabu
Palackeho 11, , Prague 1–New Town.
phone, desc: Tel. 603 847 534. Inexpensive, above-average eats and an outstanding soundtrack makes this a favorite with the in-crowd. Open daily 10 a.m.–midnight. No credit cards.

Hapu
Orlicka 8, , Prague 3–Zizkov.
phone, desc: Tel. 222 720 158. A cocktail lounge for the rest of us. Expertly prepared drinks in a crash-pad atmosphere. Very, very happening. Open Mon.–Sat. 6 p.m.–2 a.m.

Hlucna samota
Zahrebska 14, , Prague 2–Vinohrady.
phone, desc: Tel. 222 522 839. (Too Loud a Solitude) This neighborhood pub — and shrine to author Bohumil Hrabal — also serves up some surprisingly good meals. Open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m. No credit cards.

Jama
V Jame 7, , Prague 1–New Town
phone, desc: Tel. 224 222 383. (The Hollow) This fave hybrid of Czech and American pub styles serves as a meeting place for both expats and locals. Occasional parties and other forms of assorted mayhem. A very good, very affordable brunch is served weekends until 5 p.m. (off Vodickova). Open daily 11 a.m.–1 a.m.

James Joyce
Liliova 10, , Prague 1–Old Town
phone, desc: Tel. 224 248 793. This comfortable Irish pub has a long-term buzz among expats and locals alike. Czech, Irish and English beer, stout and ale are available, as is a legendary Irish breakfast, ox-tail soup, sandwiches and other well-made favorites. (near Betlemske namesti). Open daily 10:30 a.m.–12:30 a.m.

Konvikt Pub
Bartolomejska 11, , Prague 1–Old Town
phone, desc: Tel. 224 231 971. A local favorite. Traditional Czech dishes and both domestic and imported beers on tap. Breakfast, too. Open Mon.–Fri. 9 a.m.–midnight, Sat.–Sun. 11 a.m.–midnight.

Kyvadlo
V Jame 5, , Prague 1–New Town
phone, desc: Tel. 224 162 415. Good bites and great beer: above-average lunch specials and decent dinner menus, along with three varieties of delicious Bernard beer on draft. Recommended. (off Vodickova). Open Mon.–Sun. 11 a.m.–midnight.

La Tonnelle
Anny Letenske 18, , Prague 2–Vinohrady
phone, desc: Tel. 222 253 690. A practical, funky cellar bar and vinotheque. Outstanding French wines by the glass and a wonderful, bargain-priced French cheese plate. (off Manesova). Open Mon.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–midnight.

M1
Masna 1, , Prague 1–Old Town
phone, desc: Tel. 227 195 235. A secret lounge in the Old Town, perfectly suited for the cool kids and their consorts. Mixed music and social mixing, nightly. Open daily 6 p.m.–4 a.m.

Na Verandach
Nadrazni 84, , Prague 5–Smichov
phone, desc: Tel. 257 191 200. (On the Verandas) The house pub at Staropramen brewery offers 10° and 12° Pilsner-style lagers, Staropramen dark, Granat, Velvet and Kelt on draft, as well as their unique kvasnak, an unfiltered yeast beer. Excellent beer snacks and full lunch and dinner menus are available at moderate prices. Boisterous, yet polished. Recommended: pork koleno, krkovice, garlic baguettes. And a good time was had by all. (metro B to Andel; tram 6 or 12 to Na Knizeci). Open daily 11 a.m.–midnight.

Pasticka
Blanicka 25, , Prague 2–Vinohrady
phone, desc: Tel. 222 253 228. (The Little Mousetrap) The future of the neighborhood pub is here. A welcoming spot for excellent beer and good food. (at Manesova). Open Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–1 a.m., Sat.–Sun. 5 p.m.–1 a.m.

Pivni galerie
U Pruhonu 9, , Prague 7–Holesovice
phone, desc: Tel. 220 870 613. (The Beer Gallery) Prague's best collection of Czech and Moravian regional brews — close to 200 at last count. While ostensibly just a beer store, Petr Vanek's fabulous beer gallery also has chairs and tables for degustation. (tram 1, 5 or 12 to U Pruhonu). Open Mon.–Fri. 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.–1 p.m.

Pod loubim
Evropska 26, , Prague 6–Dejvice
phone, desc: Tel. 233 326 097. A cut above your average pub, this neighborhood fave serves draft Pilsner Urquell and very good, very inexpensive meals. Recommended: seared goose liver with topinky, mushrooms stuffed with niva, smoked duck with raspberry sauce. Open daily noon–midnight No credit cards.

Propaganda
Pstrossova 29, , Prague 1–New Town
phone, desc: Tel. 602 975 083, 606 441 066. Neighborhood cafe and bar. Lively young Czech crowd and occasional local celebrities. (behind the National Theater). Open Mon.–Fri. 3 p.m.–2 a.m., Sat.–Sun. 5 p.m.–2 a.m.

Quarter's Cocktail Bar
Karlovo nam. 31, , Prague 1–New Town
phone, desc: Tel. 222 233 334. A place where no one knows your name: This calm, overlooked lounge serves decent mixed drinks, making it perfect for intimate gatherings and illicit rendezvous. (near metro Karlovo Namesti). Open daily 7 p.m.–3 a.m.

St. Nicholas Cafe
Trziste 10, , Prague 1–Mala Strana
phone, desc: No telephone. It just keeps on keeping on: another cool expat bar. Plan to drink your fill. Open Mon.–Fri. noon–1 a.m., Sat.–Sun. 4 p.m.–1 a.m.

U Dvou hrabalu
Chelcickeho 13, , Prague 3–Zizkov.
phone, desc: Tel. 222 716 713. (At the Two Diggers) A welcoming, funky dive in deep Zizkov. Fresh Staropramen and a slightly atypical pub menu, featuring game dishes and updated hospoda classics. Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Sat.–Sun. noon–10 p.m. No credit cards.

U Houmra
Sumavska 20, , Prague 2–Vinohrady
phone, desc: Tel. 222 510 510. (Homer's) A simple Czech pub with few redeeming features besides the colorful Simpsons theme. Recommended: chicken steak Springfield, Millhouse's tortellini, Marge's svickova. (tram 10 or 16 to Sumavska). Open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m. No credit cards.

U Kruhu
Palackeho 6, , Prague 1–New Town.
phone, desc: Tel. 606 161 995, 602 266 854. Fresh beer and a secluded terrace just one block from Wenceslas Square. Does it get any better than this? Open daily 11 a.m.–12:30 a.m. No credit cards.

U Maleho Glena
Karmelitska 23, , Prague 1–Mala Strana.
phone, desc: Tel. 257 538 115. (Little Glenn's) Jazz and assorted good times. Good place to meet and be met. Live music every night. Open daily 10 a.m.–1 a.m.

Ultramarin
Ostrovni 32, , Prague 1–New Town.
phone, desc: Tel. 224 932 249. A newish, bluish spot for cavorting and sipping Czech wine. Nightclub open 11 a.m.–4 a.m. daily; cafe open 11 a.m.–11 p.m. daily. No credit cards.

XXX
Senovazne nam. 2, , Prague 1–New Town.
phone, desc: Tel. 224 212 001. No pornography here, just solid pub food and beers by the barrelful. Recommended: fried cheese, XXX platter, roast pork knee. Open Mon.–Fri. 10 a.m.–11 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 11 a.m.–11 p.m. No credit cards.

Internet Cafes

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BV Internet Café

Internet Cafe Spika

Internet Music Bar